A little over a year ago, I had the incredible privilege of attending a Noir Kei Ninomiya show in Paris. To say it was unforgettable would be an understatement. Noir Kei Ninomiya, the youngest branch of the Comme des Garçons family tree, is the creation of Rei Kawakubo’s protégé Kei Ninomiya. If Comme des Garçons has always stood for radical, avant-garde innovation, Noir Kei carries that torch with a distinct and daring spirit all its own.
The show I attended—spring 2019—moved me in a way I wasn’t fully prepared for. I left the venue completely transfixed, the way teenagers talk about their favorite pop stars. I realized I wasn’t just watching a collection on the runway—I was witnessing the arrival of a designer who had already carved out something powerful and personal within the broader Comme des Garçons universe. By the time I stepped out into the Paris air, I knew I had a new favorite designer. And I knew, with absolute certainty, that I needed a piece of Noir Kei in my life.
Finding the Piece
Fast forward to this season, when fortune decided to intervene on my behalf. Noir Kei Ninomiya pieces began popping up in the sale racks, and suddenly the dream felt within reach. Among them was the most extraordinary piece: a black faux-leather apron dress. On the hanger, it already had presence. But on the body? Magic.
At first glance, the material—a quilted pleather—might read as harsh, maybe even intimidating. But the moment I slipped it on, I understood the genius. The structure of the fabric gave the dress shape and body, almost like armor, yet it didn’t weigh me down. Instead, it felt oddly comforting, like carrying strength and softness at the same time. It’s rare to find clothing that feels resilient while remaining wearable, but this dress achieves it effortlessly.
I’m convinced it’s a piece I’ll wear for years, because it doesn’t belong to a single season. It’s endlessly adaptable. I can pair it with a romantic Laura Ashley blouse, as I did here, leaning into contrast and charm. Or I can just as easily throw it over a punk-inspired tee and fuzzy slippers to run errands. That’s the beauty of good design: it works in contexts you never expect.
When Fashion Becomes Family
Here’s where things get funny—apparently, I wasn’t the only one in love. Before I knew it, my mom and sister had snapped up the same apron dress. I can’t even be mad, though; in fact, it makes me smile. Fashion often feels like such a personal pursuit, but sometimes the joy is even greater when it becomes communal. Maybe one day we really will take that family photo, all three of us suited up in our Noir Kei armor, a testament to our shared obsession.
Why Noir Kei Resonates
Part of what makes Kei Ninomiya’s work so special is how it sits at the intersection of toughness and beauty. His pieces have an edge—they’re sculptural, architectural, often pushing the boundaries of what clothing can be. Yet they’re never unwearable. There’s always a way to bring them into real life, to adapt them for everyday contexts without losing their essence.
That balance is rare in fashion. Too often, runway looks remain confined to fantasy. Noir Kei bridges the gap, letting you feel like you’re participating in an avant-garde moment without leaving practicality behind. That’s exactly what I love about this apron dress: it’s a statement, yes, but it’s also something I can—and will—live in.
What I Wore
For this look, I paired the apron dress with a vintage Laura Ashley blouse, balancing structure with softness. Accessories came in the form of my trusted Prada bag and Ann Demeulemeester boots, which added just enough edge to echo the strength of the dress without overpowering it.
It’s an outfit that feels both intentional and effortless—the kind you slip into and instantly feel like yourself, only a little bit stronger, a little bit sharper. That’s what great fashion does: it doesn’t disguise you, it amplifies you.
What’s Next
The best part? This wasn’t the only Noir Kei piece I was lucky enough to find this season. Another gem from the sale racks made its way into my closet, and I can’t wait to share it soon. If this dress is any indication, it won’t just be clothing—it will be another piece of wearable art, something that brings both comfort and inspiration into my daily life.
In the meantime, I’ll keep reaching for this apron dress, whether it’s for cocktails at home or just a grocery run. After all, fashion isn’t only about events and grand gestures—it’s about the joy it brings to the everyday. And right now, nothing brings me more joy than stepping into Noir Kei Ninomiya’s world, one piece at a time.
